🔗 Share this article

When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, situated high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.